runtime: replace STW for enabling write barriers with ragged barrier
Currently, we use a full stop-the-world around enabling write
barriers. This is to ensure that all Gs have enabled write barriers
before any blackening occurs (either in gcBgMarkWorker() or in
gcAssistAlloc()).
However, there's no need to bring the whole world to a synchronous
stop to ensure this. This change replaces the STW with a ragged
barrier that ensures each P has individually observed that write
barriers should be enabled before GC performs any blackening.